Layering skincare ingredients can be a tricky business. With so many potent actives on the market, it’s tempting to combine them all in hopes of achieving flawless skin. However, not all ingredients play well together, and mixing the wrong ones can lead to irritation, reduced effectiveness, or even skin damage. In this post, I’ll guide you through the dos and don’ts of skincare layering, and introduce some fantastic products designed to make your routine both safe and effective.
WHAT CAN AND CANNOT BE LAYERED?
Vitamin C and AHAs/BHAs is a Combination to Avoid
Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is a powerful antioxidant that brightens the skin and combats free radicals. However, it’s not the best companion for Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) like glycolic, salicylic, and lactic acids. When combined, these ingredients can destabilise each other, making them less effective and potentially irritating for the skin.
For those who love both Vitamin C and AHAs, I recommend incorporating them into your routine at different times of the day. For example, apply The Vitamin C Serum in the morning. This lightweight serum is perfect for hydrating and plumping the skin after cleansing. Then, in the evening, you can introduce an AHA into your routine. The Nimue Night Cream is an excellent choice with its 5% Amphoteric Triple Alpha Hydroxy Acid Complex, designed to exfoliate, renew, and hydrate the skin without causing irritation.
Retinol/Retinoids and AHAs/BHAs
Retinol is revered for its ability to accelerate cell turnover, reduce fine lines, and smooth skin texture. However, pairing it with AHAs or BHAs can lead to excessive dryness, irritation, and a compromised skin barrier. Both retinol and acids increase skin sensitivity to the sun, so using them together can also heighten the risk of UV damage.
Instead of layering these ingredients, alternate their use. One product that offers a safe and effective way to enjoy both a retinoid and an acid is the SkinBetter Science AlphaRet Overnight Cream. This innovative product combines a retinoid with lactic acid for a slow-release formula that delivers remarkable results without the irritation traditionally associated with retinoids. For regular AHA use, you can stick to the Nimue Day Cream or Nimue Night Cream, which also contains AHAs but are formulated to be gentle and hydrating.
Vitamin C and Retinol
Vitamin C and retinol are both highly active ingredients, but they’re best used separately to avoid potential irritation. Vitamin C is most effective during the day when it can protect your skin from free radicals and environmental damage, while retinol works best at night when it can focus on renewing and repairing the skin.
To get the best out of both ingredients, apply your Vitamin C Serum in the morning and reserve retinoids for the evening. The SkinBetter Science AlphaRet Overnight Cream is a brilliant option for your nighttime routine, combining the benefits of a retinoid with a gentle exfoliation from lactic acid.
Hyaluronic Acid
One of the most versatile and skin-friendly ingredients you can incorporate into your routine is Hyaluronic Acid. This hydrating molecule works by drawing moisture into the skin, making it an ideal companion for nearly any other active ingredient.
You can apply Forlle’d Refining Lotion, a deep moisturising lotion enriched with a complex of active molecular ingredients, right after cleansing to provide your skin with long-lasting hydration. This product is suitable for all skin types, making it an essential step before layering on other actives like Vitamin C or retinol.
Oil-Based vs. Water-Based Products
When it comes to oil and water-based products, the rule is simple: apply water-based products first, followed by oil-based products. Oil creates a barrier on the skin, preventing water-based products from penetrating effectively if applied afterward. This can lead to reduced efficacy of your hydrating serums and treatments.
In a routine where both types are used, start with lightweight, water-based serums like the Vitamin C Serum, followed by richer, oil-based moisturisers or treatments.
Niacinamide and Vitamin C
There’s a common misconception that Niacinamide and Vitamin C cannot be used together, but in reality, they can be paired if done correctly. However, combining them directly can sometimes lead to reduced effectiveness or potential irritation, particularly if your skin is sensitive.
If you’re interested in using both, try applying them at different times of the day. Use your Vitamin C Serum in the morning for its antioxidant benefits and Niacinamide in the evening for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.
Skincare layering doesn’t have to be confusing or overwhelming. When we understand which ingredients work well together and which should be kept apart, you can build an simple and effective routine that can treat your skin concerns the best
Remember, if you’re looking to combine powerful ingredients like retinoids and acids, it’s often best to rely on products specifically formulated to deliver these benefits safely, such as the SkinBetter Science AlphaRet Overnight Cream. And, of course, never forget to finish your routine with a broad-spectrum sunscreen to protect your skin from harmful UV rays. SPF is always the last product you apply - every single day!
Also, if this is all still a bit overwhelming to you, why not book an online consultation with me here and we can create a skincare routine that suits your skin concerns, budget and lifestyle.
Thank you so much for reading,
Emmaline.
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